Tutorials

Requirements for a thumbnail to be posted to Artalyst

The thumbnail can be a smaller resized version of your fullsize image or it can be a small cropped area of the fullsize image. The thumbnail MUST be a portion of the original image and it MUST be exactly 80 pixels wide by 80 pixels high.

The reason for this is viewing on the main gallery pages. All of the thumbnails line up perfectly with one another, not all different shapes and orientations. Just like this:

The advantages to the site are: 1) The gallery page is nice and inviting, not cluttered with different shaped thumbnails. 2) Increases the quality of the content posted to the site. A little more effort and care is taken with your "artwork" to present it in the best possible fashion. This will cut down on the typical "snapshots" that can be uploaded in bulk with little or no quality (and effort) at all.

What are the advantages to me the artist?

You may be wondering what, if any, advantages you have by going through this lengthy process. Well, there are some really good reasons:

When someone sees a thumbnail, they see the whole thing at a glance, not at the original quality and resolution that you intended, but at a severly reduced quality of presentation.
Many browsers, intentionally or not, will prejudge the image and decide if clicking on the link and seeing the full view is worth wasting their precious internet time or not. Some thumbnails don't really give a good impression of the full image either, so browsers selectively pass the image by to something else that looks more interesting. This means less views for your image and less comments, votes and feedback.
By creating your thumbnail, you essentially create advertising space to get people to look at your image. You can crop closely into interesting areas leaving the browser interested in what the fullsize may look like.

Cropping the fullsize image for a thumbnail.

First, you will need some type of image editing software that will let you crop an image. If you don't already have software that was included with your camera or scanner, then you can download shareware image editing software that can do the trick. You don't have to buy an expensive image editing software suite to crop and resize an image.

For this tutorial I will be using adobe photoshop to crop my image. The technical procedure will be different for each software product, so I will focus on concept only. Starting with this painting of an alien girl, I want to create a thumbnail that will be interesting. Simply reducing the size of the image to 80 pixels is not in my best interest here. Although some images are perfectly suited for a simple reduction in size, in my opinion, this one isn’t.

So I select an area to crop that will be an interesting image by itself, and create a curiosity with the browser so that they will click on the thumbnail to see the fullsize image. In adobe photoshop, I hold the shift button down while selecting the crop area so that it remains perfectly square. The size of the crop is not important right now, just the composition.

Once I have my cropped area, in this example it is 110x110 pixels, I resize the image to 80x80 and save it with a new filename such as tn_image.jpg. This distinguishes my thumbnail from my fullsize which is image.jpg. Then I am ready to upload the thumbnail into the thumbnail box, and the fullsize image into the image box on the upload page.

Macro on a Budget

Since I decided to spend only a set amount for my toys, I chose to buy a cheap camera, a spotting scope for wildlife and a telescope for my astronomy interest. Most cameras cost more than I spent on this group.

The camera is a Sony MVC-FD200 2mp. I tried several other cameras and decided this is the best for the price ($299) and is definitely the simplest to use. Lots of features, but I like the macro setting best. It is a fixed lens, but will focus down to 7/8" from the subject. Large LCD screen, 3x optical, 3x digital. I set the camera on auto most of the time and may change the EV levels to fit the light situation (backlit, etc.)

As for how I shoot close-in, it's like shooting a rifle. Take a deep breath, and click the shudder right at the end of the exhale. The hands become steady just for that moment. I do not use a tripod but sometimes use a walking stick to steady my position. I also use a "too" strong pair of reading glasses so I can get my eyes very close to the LCD screen. On outside shots in the sun, I use a hat w/ a brim to shade the screen.

If you are shooting insects, find a freshly plowed field and look for insects at the field edges where the insects have fled and concentrated from the farmer’s plow. Sit in the weeds, flowers and bushes where you may have seen a bug enter. You probably will need some insect repellant. Sometimes when a butterfly flies away, he comes right back. Most likely because another butterfly has left a pheromone scent there.

While you are waiting, take a few shots of leaf surfaces and set the EV so that the sun's reflection on the leaf is not blown out. You will probably notice other points of interest near the ground.

After you do spot and insect and get a shot w/in macro range, do not move the camera away, but move in even closer for another. Pulling back to look at the photo to see how well you did will most likely spook the insect. Sometimes the "beep" the camera makes will scare a butterfly. Insects are like most animals. You can gain their trust.

The Sony Mavica uses floppy disks, each holding only 4 full resolution photos 1200x1800 size. I shoot full so I can Photoshop them, crop or whatever. It also has a memory stick but I seldom use it.

I have two of these cameras now, keeping one attached to my spotting scope or astronomy telescope. The setting is still macro for telescopes since the camera is focusing on the tiny image in the telescope's eyepiece less than an inch away. This type of photography is called "digi-scoping" but that's for another tutorial. Thanks for listening!

By: jimt

Special effects with oil and DVDs

You asked for this…………

I first figured out that placing liquid onto the surface of a cd / dvd you could get some amazing effects, my first couple were a little boring though.

Now, if you introduce a strong light source at a low angle, I use a Bowens Esprit 500 with a snoot, usually just the modelling lamp through, so any strong source you can reasonably direct will suffice, but if you have too much spill the camera will only collect white light.

You should see some rich shades, sometimes blending all the rainbow colours, sometimes just blue or orange, it’s an angle thing, drop some dollops of oil (I use silicone oil because it is clear, baby oil will do I’m sure) and admire the effects, try spraying water, lens cleaner, eclipse fluid they all have different effects, move the disk there are infinite variations.

The bad bit is somehow, what you see in the viewfinder (assuming SLR here) is not necessarily what the sensor sees, so some trial and error is needed, I think it is something to do with physics, blame Newton or Galileo, not me, I just keep clicking, like when shooting sports, just hope it works out!

I’m lucky when it comes to equipment, I have a SLR with a great macro setup, 1 – 5x magnification, normally set at about 3 of 4 for this stuff, you need enough light to be able to use ISO 100ish (any grain really spoils these) the smallest aperture you have been blessed with to allow a decent dof and a shutter speed that brings this all together. The shot in this thread (here) was ISO 100, F16 and 1/10sec, no flash, so a tripod was used, the oil tends to move a bit, that will of helped with the effect. With a ‘studio’ type light you generally have the luxury to dim the modelling light, this is where the creativity can come in as you are now in control, well you get that impression anyway………

A point to note is that your camera’s meter is not going to be reliable, so go with instinct not technology, you have a screen to review you snaps, use it, you need to use ‘Manual’ any of the programme modes will assume you are a fool and not let you do what you want, the camera is not aware that you are an ‘artist’ so be prepared to bully it.

There is a problem with just the above, that is that cd / dvds are about 1mm thick, that is 0.75mm of clear plastic and microscopic mm thick aluminium and 0.25 mm backing piece, this gives distracting shadow reflections, (here) to see what I mean. Most recordable disks have an obvious layer construction, get an adult to wiggle a sharp object in the join and split the disc (you will be horrified how easily the whole thing comes apart, you probably archive on these) and hey presto you are rewarded with a shiny aluminium platter, that refracts light. This is a very delicate thing now, it may or may not have a coating of light sensitive ink, if it does (you can tell) this will be dissolved by cleaners and make everything purple, so do all the other stuff first, do not try to polish as you will destroy the finish, some parts will not be useable as the aluminium has come away, don’t worry just use a good bit.

If you just put a blob of oil on a cd / dvd it will, sooner or later become circular, assuming it is horizontal obviously, with a ‘split’ disk this will not happen, you will end up with a sorta cylindrical shape dollop with rounded ends, see (here) it seems to follow the ‘groves’ in the aluminium, if you put two or more dollops they will eventually join up, this is where it all gets interesting, this is where you want the light on and your camera at the ready, you will probably get into some funny angles, I will not be responsible for the osteopath fees.

Things I have found that don’t work well as the liquid, theatrical blood, it just goes black, mercury, as well as being poisonous (research ‘mad as a hatter’) it eats the aluminium (the brains call it amalgamate) and only offers a reflection of the lens and photographer anyway, which with my looks is a bad thing.

Now you know just as much as I do, but if I make any remarkable discoveries I will let you know, if you make any let me know.

By: Dex

Things to remember when shooting.

I am in the process of taking a course through the New York Institute of Photography (NYIP) and thought I would share a couple basic things I have learned.

There are two things that make a shot better than average. One, your shot should be technically perfect, and two, it should be esthetically pleasing . I would add to this that there are always exceptions to the rules.

To be technically perfect a shot must be sharply focused, correctly exposed and free of physical defects. Esthetically pleasing is exactly that; to achieve this there are 3 things to remember:

1. Clearly express your theme. In other words, what is the shot about? Does it make the viewer think about what you want them to think about without any other information but the shot?
2. Focus the attention on your subject. Whatever that happens to be.
3. Simplify the shot by eliminating the distracting elements in the shot. For example, using a narrow depth of focus to separate the subject from the background by creating bokeh (blurry background).

If you can accomplish these things, all in one shot, it should be superb. I know it's hard to remember all this when you're out there shooting, but if you can, you'll find that the number of shots you take will go down and the number of good shots you take will go up.

I hope this little write-up helps in some way. I have found the course from NYIP to be excellent. You read the material, listen to a tape, watch a really corny video about the lesson and then do a test and an assignment. You send in your test and assignments and then your instructor (a professional photographer) critiques your shots on tape and sends the tape to you. Any of you that don't have a great deal of time but want instruction might like it. www.nyip.com All of you probably have seen one of their ads at one point or another in a photography magazine. I highly recommend it.

By: LosdaBear